Ask experienced divers in the Azores about their best dive and two names come up again and again: Formigas and Dollabarat. They are not on any island. They are a cluster of bare rocks and a hidden reef in the open Atlantic, between São Miguel and Santa Maria, sitting on top of a seamount that rises from deep ocean water. That is exactly why the diving is so different from anything near the coast.
From our base at Marina Pêro de Teive in Ponta Delgada, Formigas and Dollabarat are part of our offshore diving programme, together with the Mobula hot spots. This guide explains what you can expect, how the trip works and why the conditions have to be right.
The Formigas Islets ("the ants") are a small group of low, uninhabited rocks. The largest, Formigão, rises only about 11 metres above the sea, and the islets carry a solar-powered lighthouse. They lie north-east of Santa Maria and south-east of São Miguel. From Ponta Delgada, the straight-line distance is roughly 90 km (about 50 nautical miles), so this is a full day at sea.
The Dollabarat reef sits about 5 km south-south-east of the islets. Its top is only around 3 metres below the surface, which made it a serious hazard for ships. It is named after Pierre Dollabarats, a Basque captain whose small boat struck it on 7 March 1788. The bank has claimed other vessels since, including the British ship Zyllah in 1832 and the Greek cargo ship Olympia in 1921.
Formigas and Dollabarat are one of the oldest marine protected areas in the Azores:
For divers, the practical rules are simple: no fishing or spearfishing, no collecting of any kind, no disturbing the seabirds on the islets, and no landing. Look, photograph, and leave everything as you found it. Your guide will brief you on the current rules before the dive.
The result of decades of protection is visible underwater: big fish, healthy algae and a sense of how an Atlantic reef looks when it is left alone.
The seamount pushes deep, nutrient-rich water towards the surface, and life follows. Commonly reported at Formigas and Dollabarat:
Nothing in the open ocean is guaranteed, and our guides will never promise a specific animal. What you can count on is volume: more fish, and bigger fish, than at most coastal sites.
Profile. At Dollabarat you can start close to the top of the reef and follow the walls down. Depth depends on the site and your certification. Your guide will set the plan for the group on the day.
Visibility. Far from the coast, with no river run-off and little sediment, visibility is often excellent.
Current and swell. This is open ocean. Currents can be strong and the swell is not broken by any island. That is why we ask for experience: offshore trips require certified divers with recent dives, and we may ask for a check dive before you join.
Weather window. The trip only goes ahead with good sea conditions. On a long crossing, a forecast that looks fine in Ponta Delgada can be very different 50 nautical miles out. If the skipper says no, it is for your safety and comfort.
| Departure | Best Spot Azores, Kiosk B, Marina Pêro de Teive, Ponta Delgada |
| Destinations | Formigas, Dollabarat, Mobula hot spots (depending on conditions) |
| Price | from €125 per dive |
| Group | minimum 8 divers |
| Requirements | certified, experienced divers; a check dive may be requested |
| Guides | dive leaders with marine biology degrees |
Because the trip needs a minimum group and the right forecast, the best approach is to tell us early that you want to go offshore, and keep a few flexible days in your plan. In the meantime, you can join our daily dive trips around São Miguel (from €50 for one dive, down to €37.50 per dive with the 10-dive pack): you will get your check dive done and be ready when the window opens.
Can beginners dive Formigas? No. Offshore trips are for certified and experienced divers. If you are new to diving, start with our Try Scuba or SSI and PADI courses around São Miguel.
When is the best season? Summer usually brings the calmest seas and the best chance of devil rays. The trip can run at other times when the weather allows.
Why is there a minimum of 8 divers? It is a long crossing with a large boat and a full crew for the day. Joining a group keeps the price per person reasonable.
Is it a protected area? Yes. It has been a nature reserve since 1988 and is part of Natura 2000 and the Ramsar list. No fishing, no collecting, no landing on the islets.
Can I dive Formigas from Santa Maria instead? Santa Maria is closer, but from Ponta Delgada you get daily diving around São Miguel and offshore trips from the same dive centre during your stay.
Sources: Regional Legislative Decree no. 11/88/A (Formigas Nature Reserve, 4 April 1988); Ramsar Sites Information Service, site 1804 "Ilhéus das Formigas e Recife Dollabarat" (designated 16 June 2008); Azores Natural Parks; Azores Regional Government, RAMPA (Formigas Marine Nature Reserve); Best Spot Azores price list. Distance from Ponta Delgada calculated in a straight line from Marina Pêro de Teive.